Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Spending a Fall Weekend in Boulder


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I'm still smiling from a weekend with the girlfriends that I fondly refer to as the XHHH group.  Kelly, Liza, Virginia, Liz, Missy and I recently decided to spend a weekend in Boulder. Kelly had it all planned out for us---flights, transportation, restaurants, even sending out weather information the day before we left.

Thursday night four of us arrived in Boulder and went to dinner at Pasta J's. It was so delicious that we ended up going again on our last night so it was the perfect start to our trip. Each morning Kelly had coffee brewing for us. We drank it huddled by the gas log fireplace or on the porch. We would finally get out when we got hungry, usually before we were even dressed & showered, which made us fit right in in Boulder.


We spent the afternoons shopping on Pearl Street, perusing the Farmer's Market, driving through the mountains or sitting around drinking cocktails at the place we lovingly called the cabin. There was lots of talking about our feelings, talking about each other's feelings, and then there was talking about what other people think about the feelings that we think they are thinking. At least that's what Kelly picked up in her oh-so-astute observations!! We had several living room dance parties---I insisted we roll up the living room rug for proper dancing.  There was even a sexy bumblebee that made an appearance.

It started to snow on the last day and even though it was not cold enough to stick on the ground it was the perfect ending to a relaxing and fun weekend.

I had such a great time---thanks to all of my girlfriends for adding so much to my life!

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Austin City Limits 2009


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You know, treated sewage is not that bad. I don't even mind the word "sewage." It's just "wage," which is good, with a "se" in front of it. Se-wage. When you consider the other choices, sewage is actually pretty refreshing.

And so it was for the 2009 Austin City Limits Music Festival. For three days, Zilker Park became the ideal place to determine which bands you like, which bands you love, and which bands you would trudge through ankle-deep poo to experience.

Brandi and I arrived at the park at about 6:00 on Friday, thanks to our friends Courtney and Thad, who were nice enough to let us park near their house and then dropped us off by the park. Upon entering the park, we immediately noticed that the money they've spent on a new lawn had really paid off.  It was a perfect shade of green and felt great to walk through, a huge contrast from the brittle, brown grass of years past.

The first act we saw was John Legend, the conspicuously-named son of George and Rita Legend. He started out among the audience doing a very good cover of Bob Marley's "Redemption Song" before gradually making his way up to the stage. He also covered Michael Jackson's "Remember the Time" and the Beatles' "I Want You (She's So Heavy)" in addition to doing his own songs. After grabbing a burger for dinner, we went to see Kings of Leon. The Beastie Boys unfortunately had to cancel, so we were left with the Kings of Leon and the Yeah Yeah Yeahs. Neither one of them is a favorite for either of us, but I was definitely more excited to see Kings of Leon, so we started there. They were okay, but I'm still placing them in the category of Bands That I'm Really Supposed to Like But I Just Don't. So we watched them for a little over half an hour before checking out the Yeah Yeah Yeahs. The Yeah Yeah Yeahs should really consider changing their name to the Huh Huh Huhs. I don't get it. I won't say too much about the music and the enormous response it gets out of a lot of people because I don't want to be like one of those old people who goes to an art museum and says, "My kid could draw that." But it was really cool seeing the singer perform a song with a blanket over her head. (Possibly another Michael Jackson tribute---not too sure either way.)

On Saturday we arrived at the park in mid-afternoon, just about half an hour after a light rain was starting to fall.  We caught the end of Flogging Molly, an Irish punk-folk band that was extremely entertaining.  They were a great example about what makes ACL so amazing: you see a band name that you recognize and think might be interesting, and then you wander over the stage only to get blown away.  Well done.

The grounds were still pretty good, though they were getting wet, and some mud was starting to pop up in heavily-trafficked places.  For instance, the food court, where we went next, was pretty nasty, but the most popular vendors still had lines 40 yards long.  After eating, Brandi went to Mos Def, where she ran into a group of friends, and I went to see Levon Helm Band.  Mr. Helm was on doctor-ordered vocal rest, so I didn't get to hear any of the Band classics that I was hoping to hear.  But it was a very good folk band with a lot of moving parts.

The next band, The Decemberists, was the biggest one for me.  I waited to meet up with Brandi in between the Beatles: Rock Band tent and a tent showing the A&M/Arkansas game.  Being at a music festival and within view of Aggie football and The Beatles: Rock Band is about as ideal a situation as you can get, but it wasn't to be for very long as Brandi found me and we headed to watch The Decemberists.  In terms of viewing the concert, this one was pretty tough.  The rain was still coming down, and there were a lot of umbrellas blocking our view of both the video screen and the stage.  The frustrating part for me was seeing people who were wearing hooded jackets and were still determined to keep their umbrellas up, blocking the views of the group of people behind them.  The Decemberists ended up playing their entire Hazards of Love album, which was very theatrical and interesting.  This was my first time seeing them, so I missed out on seeing a lot of songs that I would have liked them to play, but seeing their latest album performed in toto gave me a much greater appreciation of an album that, up to this point, wasn't my favorite.

The final act of the night was Dave Matthews Band.  We trudged through a lot of mud to find a reasonable seat, and the crowd for this one was pretty ridiculous.  This was my first time seeing Dave Matthews perform---I was definitely a pretty big fan in the 90's, but the set list was definitely skewed toward more recent songs.  That was cool, but I could have done okay with one or two (or ten) fewer 10-minute jam sessions to close each song.


On Sunday we arrived in time to see the B-52s, and the new-look Zilker park.  The mud was a decent amount worse than it was the night before, plus it was much more visible.  And the smell.  We found out that the dirt that was an inch or two deep all across the park was Dillo Dirt, a City of Austin creation made of composted yard clippings and treated sewage.  Which raises an interesting dilemma for the green set that make up the ACL attendance: you push for a carbon-neutral world, but how do you feel when the consequences of that world get dumped on your music festival?  A lot of people were repulsed by the mud, but as soon as I found out where it came from, I actually thought it was pretty cool.

Anyway, the B-52s had a decidedly party feel, as if their lone purpose was to get people to dance around and have fun.  They consist of three vocalists plus a backing band who exude campiness, almost to the point of it being an affectation.  The crowd, for their part, appears to enjoy their brand of happiness and good times packaged in a thinly veiled musical veneer.  In fact, one tune in particular, the one bearing the moniker "Love Shack," appeared to be the exemplar of the band/fan cabal of sunshine.  The band used their mantra of "Love Shack," often appended with a superfluous but nonetheless welcomed "Baby!" to remind the audience of a simpler time, the 1980s, a time when, in fact, the same B-52s band were even then trying to remind their audience of another, though possibly less simple time, the 1960s; the audience gladly stepped into this double time machine for the five minutes plus that it took to get from an oversized Chrysler to a tin roof that, from the sounds of it, seems to be in some state of disrepair.  The party people, as it were, their desire for nostalgia quenched, then dispersed, though methinks many of them would have been delighted to hear the tale of a misapprehended lobster, with which the band regaled a much smaller subset of the human population.*


Next, we grabbed some popcorn and tried to see Brett Dennen.  Unfortunately, Mr. Dennen decided to play his set in a rather muddy section of the park.  I don't want to say he played to the La Brea Tar Pits, but there were a couple wooly mammoths that crawled up to request "Ain't No Reason."  So we watched from a distance.  And then we left the park to have lunch at Chuy's, which was a great idea.  We really enjoyed the good food and clean bathrooms.  Then we headed back to the park to catch Ben Harper.  Ben Harper is an ACL regular who this time around showed up with the Relentless 7, and he was very good.  He definitely knows how to talk up the city we call home.  After Ben Harper, we turned 45 degrees to the right to enjoy Girl Talk.


Despite the video screen entreatments to the contrary, Girl Talk is a DJ.  He does mashups of some very popular songs from the last 40 years, and Brandi was very excited to see him.  She enjoyed dancing all over the place, despite moving gingerly all day to avoid getting muddy feet.  I asked a question that I felt needed to be asked: If these are all pre-mixed songs that are playing on tape, did he even need to show up?  My question was sort of answered when random messages started getting typed on the video screen.  So that made me think that maybe he was actually doing something live.  Then I thought, the only really good way to prove that you are typing it right now is to type up all of today's NFL scores.  Then I thought, I really wish he would type up all of today's NFL scores.

Pearl Jam was the big act of the weekend, and we were very tired at the end of the day, but we wanted to be able to say that we've been to a Pearl Jam concert.  Which we now can.  If you call staying for one song and being half a mile away from the stage being at a Pearl Jam concert.

The 2009 Austin City Limits Music Festival taught us many things, not the least of which was that the B-52s have still got it...if by "it" you mean a very flamboyant leading man who speaks kind of like a three year old telling a story to a nearly-deaf grandparent.  Also, be careful what you ask for, because you just might get it.  Especially if what you ask for is a lush, green lawn and beautiful weather, followed by a two-day slog through a caca/compost combo.

*We've thought that it would be best to put a disclaimer on this paragraph.  Since the B-52s are pretty universally known, I decided to dispense with the trite descriptions and describe them as a truly foreign observer (like someone from a different era or possibly an alien from Mars) would.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

I Heard It Through the Great Wine


http://picasaweb.google.com/daniel.lauve/CaliforniaSeptember2009For our second anniversary, we talked briefly about going out to Mandola winery or maybe for a day trip, and somehow that turned into Napa Valley.  Good thing it did, too.

We found some good tickets from Southwest that took us into Sacramento on Friday the 25th and back from San Jose on Tuesday the 29th.  On Friday, our flight to Phoenix was uneventful, but the flight to Sacramento was delayed by almost two hours.  We slept late on Saturday morning before starting the hour-long drive to Napa.  We didn't have any plans for the day, which we started to realize could be an issue as we surveyed the number of wineries that require some kind of appointment.  Thankfully, Del Dotto winery, which received some really good reviews, had some space for us.


Del Dotto has the second oldest wine cave in Napa (built by Chinese immigrants in the late 19th century)---it's several hundred feet long, with a couple turns, lit with candles, and is lined with barrels of wine.  After talking about the barrels they use and letting us sniff an oak barrel, our guide took us through the cave, letting us sample wine straight from the barrels along the way.  The wines were between $60 and $125 a bottle, and they were about the best wines I've ever had.  The first one was a sangiovese that tasted incredibly smooth and was really good (sorry, that's all you're getting from me, still not really a wine critic).  We sampled about eight wines in all---probably the most interesting was a pair of wines that were the same wine (same grapes, same vineyard) from two different barrels.  One was French Oak and one was American Oak, and we all preferred the French Oak.

Our second winery was Luna, which was a vineyard-lined country highway mile from Del Dotto.  We had a tasting of their wines and took photos near the vineyard before heading up the road to Reynolds Family, a great little winery on beautiful grounds.  We had a tasting there but were really keen on getting a tour, since Del Dotto was a great experience but didn't get much into the winemaking process.  An intern was nice enough to take us around, showing us some grapes fermenting, letting us taste some grapes off the vine, and giving us some wine out of a barrel.


Our last stop was at St. Supery, which Brandi immediately recognized.  They were having a party for their wine club members that included an 80's cover band.  The wine club is something that I was previously unaware of.  Very few of the wineries you visit distribute their wines through lots of retail and food service outlets.  They count on selling to the people who come in for tastings, and then they have a wine club that regularly purchases their product.  St. Supery is a bit of an exception, as they can be found in the grocery store, but it's still pretty apparent that they do a lot of business through their club.

For dinner we headed to Sonoma and ate at El Dorado, a restaurant on the city square with a beautiful courtyard.  The food was very good, especially the ice cream sandwiches we had for dessert.  Then we took a nighttime drive into San Francisco across the Golden Gate Bridge---that thing is massive!  (And it's six bucks to cross, so best to take it all in in one shot.)  Highway 1 quickly turns into Lombard Avenue, so we decided to go down the crookedest block in the world.  The only problem was that in getting to the crooked hill we took ourselves further away from the hotel, and getting back took our poor rental PT Cruiser (the same type of rental car we had in Banff and on our wedding day, by the way) up a lot of tough hills that it really wasn't prepared for.

We stayed at Parc 55, right on Union Square.  The hotel was very nice, we remarked to each other, as we got off the elevator, walked to our room, opened the door, and AAAAAAH!  A high-pitched man squeal, along with said man frightenedly saying, "Someone's in here!" is how we learned that our room was occupied.  We got a new room, thankfully.

On Sunday morning we went for a long run that included Chinatown, the piers, and the hills near Coit Tower.  Then we went to church, which was (surprise!) a Latin Mass (our first).  I enjoyed reliving my misspent year in high school learning impossible conjugations and arcane legal phrases, and Brandi enjoyed having no idea what was going on.  Oh yeah, and we got to bring up the gifts, so that was pretty cool.

[Brandi here...]  For lunch we decided to try Yank Sing, a Chinese restaurant that my doctor recommended. Dr. Schmidt is from the Bay area and he really knows Deem Sum! It was quite an experience; the waitstaff comes by with all menu items displayed on carts such as dumplings of all kinds, meat-stuffed buns, peking duck, various vegetable stir fry, and traditional desserts. We tasted as much as we could but I couldn't quite make it to dessert because I was so full. Daniel thought it was one of the best Chinese meals he'd ever had.


We then decided to go to Fisherman's Wharf and walked through the Ferry Building and then we took a street car the rest of the way there. My favorite thing at the Wharf was watching the sea lions. There were several hundred of them lounging and playing very close to the pier! After walking around Fisherman's Wharf we ended our evening in San Francisco with a nice dinner at the Waterfront Cafe.

We then drove a little under an hour to Half Moon Bay to the Old Thyme Inn, the Bed and Breakfast we were staying at until Tuesday. We got up Monday morning and ran down to the bay. While it was a foggy morning, it was still beautiful and calming. We made it back in time to get ready for the delicious breakfast of Dutch apple pancakes and chicken apple sausage. The pancake was more like eating a sumptuous cake than breakfast. There was also rosemary corn cake (made with fresh rosemary from their garden), fresh fruit and strong delicious coffee. We also had stimulating conversation with the other guests staying at the inn and I was very intrigued by the many different types of visitors.


Once we had our fill, we decided to head south to explore more wineries and enjoy the scenery. The drive was beautiful and calming, except for the first half hour because while I was busy looking at the map I got motion sickness, ugh. The first vineyard we came to was Savannah Chanelle. It was up the side of a mountain and had breathtaking views and a beautiful old house to enjoy our tasting. We kept driving south and visited the Cinnabar tasting room in Saratoga and then to Los Gatos to visit Testarossa---a winery that used to be an old monastery. The used to make church wine there! It was a beautiful old building. We then decided to head to Santa Cruz for a late lunch and possibly make it one last tasting room, Bonny Doon, but we caught them as they were to trying close up so we headed back up Highway 1 to Half Moon Bay. That evening we walked together downtown to our last meal in California at a quaint  Italian restaurant that was downtown. It was perfectly warm and relaxing. We toasted to our lovely wine tour of Northern California!